Jodhpur

What to see in Jodhpur, India's so-called “Blue City”?

Like neighboring Jaisalmer, Jodhpur’s origins are rooted in military strategy: the local ruler was looking for a location that could be easily defended against foreign invasions, and the nearby Bhakurcheeria Hill (which means “Bird Mountain” in Hindi) allowed him to build an impregnable fort to protect himself. We’ll return to the fort later..

And why are all those buildings painted blue? Supposedly, at first, only the brahmanes (the priests, India's highest caste) were allowed to paint their houses blue to set themselves apart from the rest of the common people…it seems that over time, other citizens copied this practice because they discovered that copper sulfate mixed with lime helped repel termites.

Jodhpur has neither the wild, frontier feel of Jaisalmer nor the laid-back vibe of Udaipur, but it helps you reflect on how Indian society was structured.

Beyond the various monuments and points of interest, the stark contrast between two very different Indias is worth noting: compare the past extravagance of the ruling maharajas with the living conditions of the residents of the Old City.

WHAT TO SEE IN JODHPUR: THE EXTRAVAGANCE

Obviously, the first things to see in Jodhpur are its amazing palaces—the historic one inside the fort and the more modern one Umaid Bhawan Palace.

The love of luxury of one of Rajasthan's ruling dynasties has left us with the Meherangarh (“Majestic Fort”), whose imposing presence looms over the entire city: perched on a hill that guards the city, you must climb a zigzagging path under the scorching desert sun until you reach the Gate of Victory, which still bears the marks of cannon fire from successive invaders who tried to seize the fort.

Once you step inside, you'll be treated to a palace straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*: welcome to the former palace of the Maharaja and the Royal Family in Jodhpur

Room by room, we’ll explore what life was like for the Maharaja in the 19th century: his private quarters, the ceremonial halls, and… the royal harem. Let’s focus a bit on the latter using the photo below: The Zenana Deodi or the section of the palace set apart from the rest, where the Maharaja's concubines lived

This will allow us to imagine the lives of these concubines, subject to the draconian demands of the purdah: Theoretically, to avoid the leering glances of men, women were supposed to be completely hidden from men, locked away like little birds in a golden cage

This explains these wonderful facades that we see time and again throughout Rajasthan: the jalis or windows “bricked up” with latticework from which the courtesans can observe, but not be observed; windows through which light and air enter, but no outside influence…

Below, we see the Maharaja's private quarters

A whole world of luxury and comfort for the privileged few… the entire palace is pretty much like this, room after room of stained-glass windows and beautifully preserved lacquered interiors.

For a slightly more macabre story, here’s the legend of the footprints of Loha Pol: near one of the fort’s gates, as you can see in the photo below, there’s a relief depicting a cluster of hands where people stop to pray or leave flowers.

These are the concubines of the court who left the fort in a procession to commit Sati (ritual self-immolation). In 1843, following the death of Maharaja Man Singh, they dressed in their finest clothes, smeared henna paste on their hands against the fort walls as a final blessing, and voluntarily walked toward the Maharaja’s funeral pyre to be burned alive.…

Since we’re wrapping up the topic of the fort, the visit can take a while, and the heat here is brutal, so I recommend bringing plenty of water—much of which you’ll use up on the short climb to the fort’s entrance…

Here we see the extravagance of the past, during a period (17th–19th centuries) when it was common among the ruling classes in every country… but what about the more recent past?

Let's visit Umaid Bhawan Palace to find an answer

This colossal structure was commissioned by the Maharaja of Jodhpur in 1929 and took 15 years to complete; a small town of artisans and workers was even built to house those dedicated exclusively to the palace’s construction.

Today, it serves as a luxury hotel, the residence of the Maharaja’s descendants, and a museum where you can reflect on the height of extravagance: the Maharaja’s car collection—two Rolls-Royces, a convertible, etc.

THE REAL WORLD

And what is there to see in Jodhpur, away from the palaces, back in the real world?

A photo taken in the western part of Sardar Market: unpaved streets, cramped shops, and a deafening din caused by uncontrolled traffic. Not a single trash can—and, of course, not a single Rolls-Royce in sight….

Looking at this man and his string shop (😳), one wonders if this shapeless, noisy, and cheerful crowd has simply accepted that this is their place in life; could it be that the shop belonged to his grandfather, then his father, and finally his son—in an endless chain? Does he feel indignation or anger when he compares his small business to the dozens of luxurious rooms of the Maharajas?

I have no idea, but at least I can take comfort in seeing how the people of Jodhpur have managed to adapt with cheerfulness to an unfair situation: the so-called “Blue City” is colorful at times…

…and funny at times

At a local festival, these girls laugh, whisper, and comment on the performances of the neighborhood men, who, armed with wooden swords or pikes, battle each other in a sort of Indian gladiatorial duel: from children whose pikes tower a head above them to adults who take it very seriously within a tight circle of onlookers who cheer them on, jeer at them, or encourage them in equal measure…

I'd like to think that these humble people have a better time—or at least as good a time—as the Maharaja in his gigantic palace…

If you liked this post or have more information to add, let me know in the comments!

And to learn more about India: https://999millas.net/category/paises/india/

Or you can also visit their official website: https://www.india.gov.in/category/travel-tourism/subcategory/tourism-in-india/details/official-website-of-rajasthan-tourism-department

Texto y fotos : Mike !