Bali: Lights and Shadows

A week in Bali can be packed with so much—from the overcrowded Seminyak and Kuta to the charm of Ubud…! Let's go!

KUTA

A cesspool. I can't think of any reason to stop here other than to go to the airport the next morning or to go surfing. It's sad that there are places like this in Bali.

A main street (Jalan Raya Kuta) lined with bars isn't reason enough to stop here. All around it are numerous gangs or narrow side streets with no sidewalks. When it rains, everything turns into an obstacle course as you try to dodge the puddles caused by the poor road surface. Sidewalks are either nonexistent or useless, and traffic is a pain—even on a motorcycle.

The beach isn't bad—it's long and has good waves.

Anyone looking for a little relaxation here is in for a surprise: there isn't a single spot left to lay out your towel on your own, since the whole place is packed with lounge chairs…that you have to pay for, of course. Another common nuisance on this beach is the surf schools: there’s one every 50 meters… It’s easy to imagine how many annoying people will be asking you for something—beach chairs, surf lessons, to buy a bracelet… it’s a real nightmare of a stay.

SEMINYAK

Kuta's rich sister.

If there were a “golden mile” in Bali, it would be here. Chic clothing boutiques, high-end restaurants, and palatial hotels suggest that this is an area for tourists with higher purchasing power.

But in the end, you're faced with the same problem as in Kuta… what is there to do here? The beach is practically the same as in Kuta, and the “town” itself is just one long stretch of shops and more shops…

It's all very nice… but not very authentic 🙁

A taxi to or from the airport shouldn't cost you more than 100,000 Rp, no matter how much the driver insists that the official fare is 150,000; in fact, it's best to use Uber, which I found out on my second-to-last day there 😅.

UBUD

Since we're going to spend a week in Bali, we might as well stay somewhere nice, right? Ubud is one of those places. Unlike the others, it's a real pleasure to stroll through its clean streets, which are full of flowers and tastefully decorated.. Bridges, roads, homes, temples… wherever you go in Bali, you’ll come across these small offerings that the Balinese make to their spirits.

Every morning, as if by magic, the sidewalks fill up with these little baskets filled with flowers, rice, or cookies, all perfumed with the scent of incense.

The truth is, you come across some really funny images (may the spirits forgive me for saying this)

The city is relatively small and can be explored on foot—unlike in Kuta, there's no risk of being run over by some crazy person on a scooter.

What's there to see? In a day and a half, you can see almost everything—unless you decide to go on a lot of hikes (which, by the way, is highly recommended).

Neka Art Museum

A short distance from the city—about a half-hour walk—the street Jalan Raya Sanggingan Climb up a small hill until you reach this museum. All along the route, you come across modern art galleries—by the way, I didn't see any Balinese people inside—and the museum is supposed to be the crown jewel of Bali's museums (I say it's a gem because admission costs an arm and a leg: 75,000 Rp).

Once you're inside, it's not all that impressive: it has an interesting photography section and an exhibition of keris (traditional Indonesian knives) very well done.

For more information: http://www.museumneka.com

El Pura Taman Saraswati

Walking down the same street, dodging taxi drivers everywhere, he hides el Pura Taman Saraswati one of the most beautiful temples in the city. As its name suggests, it is dedicated to Saraswati, the Hindu goddess of knowledge, literature, wisdom, and the arts.

️Every day, engaged couples stop by here to take photos before their wedding. The girls wear long dresses in vibrant colors and makeup that makes them look like porcelain; the boys have to put on the sarong typical of this area (a kind of sarong). Admission costs 65,000 Rp, and yes, you have to wear a sarong to cover your legs…

In the evenings, there is a traditional Balinese dance performance that costs 100,000 Rps and starts at 7:00 p.m.

Monkey Sanctuary

Without a doubt, the best thing about this place: monkeys of all sizes roam freely among the temples of this unique complex in Bali.

Admission is only 40,000 Rp, and you can have a really fun time with the monkeys—especially if you bring some food.

It's best to bring some small bananas from home, since inside they charge 20,000 Rp for a tiny bunch. Putting a banana on your head and letting the monkey climb up to grab it is priceless, although it's best not to tease them too much and to leave them alone because they can get grumpy too.

Let's leave the monkeys alone. . .

Hiking

When you've had enough of people constantly saying “taxi...” to you, you can escape the city for a bit by taking a couple of trails that will lead you away from the crowds in no time.

The first one is next to Pura Taman Saraswati—look for a sign that says “rice walk”—and it will take you through the rice paddies that run parallel to the main road.

It's an easy walk of about 30 minutes that ends at the Jalang Kaleng, where there are workshops and knick-knack shops; the workshops are really interesting, and they let you visit them…! For free! 😱

There are furniture shops—the wooden furniture here is very famous and of excellent quality—and shops selling baskets and handicrafts—made by women—

They know I'm taking a picture of them, but they're trying to hide it, haha

The second trail starts at the Ibah Hotel (next to the Blanco Museum) and goes uphill, leading to a series of art galleries and hostels. It's just a nice way to pass the time.

In bemo (minivan) It costs 60,000 Rp to get to Ubud from Kuta.

LOVINA

If you're going to be in Bali for more than a week and/or are interested in snorkeling or want a more authentic, less touristy experience, you shouldn't miss a visit to northern Bali.

The largest city in the north is Singaraja and it's almost as chaotic as Kuta. In fact, I don't know of any tourists who stay here, and it's worth visiting just for a little while to enjoy the seafood restaurants along the coast.

It's best to get there by bike or motorcycle—or, for the laziest among us, to hitch a ride bemo (navy blue) on the main road—the bus terminal is relatively close to the waterfront and you can walk there, although it’s not a comfortable walk due to the heavy traffic and lack of sidewalks…

Snorkel tours

There are two types:

The “far” tour takes you almost to the westernmost tip of Bali—where the best snorkeling is—and you shouldn’t pay more than 500,000 Rp. That’s a fortune and probably a rip-off. I didn’t take it, so I can’t say any more. The “near” tour (~120,000 Rp) will take you to see the dolphins and then go snorkeling.

From what I've been told here, rather than just watching the dolphins, they're being tortured, since there are several boats “harassing” them, and I don't know how much the poor dolphins are enjoying this.

You don't have to book a tour at the hotel or a travel agency. Heading west from Lovina, you'll find several access points to the beach where fishermen leave their small catamarans, and you can negotiate with them directly. Look for signs that say “Billibo Beach Cottages” or “Starlight Hotel” between the villages of Kaliasem and Temukus.

Riding with the bike

The north coast is traversed by a well-paved east-west highway with heavy but not overwhelming traffic. It’s ideal for renting a motorcycle or a bike (25,000 Rp) and exploring the small paths leading to the villages surrounded by the famous rice paddies.

For example Pandawa Village in the photo above; or you can wait on the beach for the sunset and watch the fishermen make their final efforts to bring something home.

When you're tired of exploring, you can visit the hot springs called Air Panas Banjar (10,000 Rp). The water is said to spring from sulfur-rich soil at a constant temperature of about 38 °C, and it’s considered highly therapeutic for the skin and muscle aches… well, I went ahead and got in anyway, though I wasn’t entirely convinced by the stench of sulfur and the somewhat suspicious color of the water…

I don't know if the water had healing properties or not, but it felt pretty good; you don't need to book a tour or anything: Banjar is right next to Lovina, and once you're there, the locals will show you the way.

A WEEK IN BALI: SURFING ALONG THE BUKIT PENINSULA

If you're planning to spend a week in Bali, you'll have to visit the touristy Bukit Peninsula

¿How to get there

Unfortunately, there is no public transportation from other parts of Bali, so you have to take the dreaded taxi (1 hour and 15 minutes). Don't pay more than 200,000 Rp, no matter how much they tell you that the “official fare” is 250,000 Rp. The best option is to use Uber.

A week in Bali has to include some surfing. Yes, surfing is the best way to experience this area—so much so that almost all the motorcycles (50,000 Rp/day) have a sort of “arm” attached to the side so you can carry your board. Here’s a map with some places to go surfing

Spectacular is the Ulu Watu Beach, only suitable for very skilled surfers

You enter through this narrow passageway surrounded by rocks and coral—it would be a bad idea for the tide to pull you off your board or slam you against the rocks….

For those who prefer less intense thrills, there's the conventional option Padang Padang beach, with a little bit of sand to share with the monkeys—I caught one of them rummaging through my backpack, but it couldn't pull off the theft 😎

And finally, even with all the hustle and bustle, you can find a moment to visit the Pura Luhur Ulu Watu, a temple perched on a cliff with a beautiful trail winding along the mountainside

️There's so much, so much more to enjoy during a week in Bali, but time is running out and the rest of Indonesia is waiting for me…

Well, that's all. I hope you liked it... and whether you did or didn't, let me know by leaving a comment!!

And if you'd like to learn more about Indonesia: https://999millas.net/category/paises/indonesia/

Texto y fotos : Mike !