Jeddha

What to see in Jeddah? Where to start? Well, let's start with the flight there.

Jeddah is one of the gateways to Medina and Mecca, and every year thousands of pilgrims make their way here, get off the plane, and take the train or a bus to those destinations.

As people gather in the boarding line for the flight to Jeddah, you start to see more and more men dressed in what looks like a towel (?), a blanket (?), or even curtains (!!) in pristine white.

I notice the nationalities of these people when we're in the line where they check passports: Indonesia, the United Kingdom (lots of them), Pakistan… and even a few Germans!

But the story doesn't end at the boarding gate. During the flight, there are huge lines for the restrooms. The men (but not the women) go into the restroom and stay in there for what seems like an eternity… and after a while, I figure out the mystery:

Just like in a “Superman booth,” men dressed in Western-style clothing (jeans and a shirt) go in and come out wearing the pilgrim outfit described above—with the added problem that it’s quite loose from the waist up, so you find yourself horrified as you gaze at a parade of bare chests and bellies in the middle of the plane….

By the way, if you’re thinking of “sneaking” into Mecca or Medina by pretending to be a pilgrim, give up all hope: I was told that to get in, they require a document—in addition to your passport—issued by the Islamic center in your city certifying that you are a Muslim…

How to Get to Downtown Jeddah from the Airport

The best option, without a doubt (at the airport and in Saudi Arabia in general), is to use Uber

An Uber ride downtown costs about 43 rials (10–11 euros), compared to the 75 or 100 rials that the “honest” taxi drivers—who hound you as soon as you leave the baggage claim area—try to charge you.

There’s also a bus (the Express 13—though “express” is just for show; it was extremely slow) that goes through Al Balad (the historic center of Jeddah) via a “stop” at the domestic terminal of Jeddah Airport. It costs 20 riyals.

Well, I arrived at my hotel (which I had booked in advance) around 11:15 p.m.

I'm greeted by a closed door and a little sign that reads: “Closed for maintenance.” I start pounding on the door, and a man comes out and tells me to leave because they're doing renovations. I remind him of his family, and he calls the owner.

This guy comes out, and I try to sweet-talk him into letting me sleep in the hotel lobby, on the couches. I'm not going to let this guy fool me… well, after a long walk at night, I find another hotel.

I walk in, and as he’s checking me in, he looks at me with interest, as if he’s thinking something (like how to rip me off, I guess), and I point out a tiny sign with the room rate: 150 rials. The guy looks at it, completely surprised, and starts laughing… no one rips me off twice in the same night, haha

Let's get started with the tour itself

What to See in Jeddah

Al Balad

Al Balad está incluida como uno de los lugares Patrimonio de la Humanidad por la UNESCO y es una visita inexcusable en Arabia Saudí. Sus maravillosas casas de coral han hospedado visitantes tan ilustres como el viajero medieval Ibn Batutta o el famoso Lawrence de Arabia

Probably the best place to choose where to stay.

This is the historic district of Jeddah, a network of winding alleys lined with shops and historic buildings, some of which have been restored…

…and others in a glorious state of ruin, standing on their rotten wood and crumbling stone as best they can

These elegant houses have truly seen better days

Al Balad is organized like a typical souq souq (Eastern souk: In one area, all the stores sell clothing (in this case, in the northern part of the souk), and in another area, the shoe stores are clustered together (in the southern part).

The neighborhood has it all: little squares with tables where you can sit and enjoy the fresh air, half-ruined mosques, and lots of bored police officers sitting in rickety chairs, constantly playing with their cell phones.

One curious thing I'd never seen before in these souks is a sort of “cat feeder” right in the middle of the street

For some reason I don't understand, Saudi Arabia in general—and Jeddah in particular—are full of cats everywhere, and the neighbors are very kind to them, both here and on the Corniche.

In an hour and a half or two hours, you can see all of Al Balad

Spend those two hours visiting it at night, since it's unbearably hot during the day (about 35 degrees, and that's in November…)

The various small squares in the historic center have been lit up in a very inviting way, and there are tables and chairs where—surprise—you don't have to buy anything to sit down

At sunset, everyone heads out shopping and the souk comes alive—it’s quite a sight. By the way, if you’re thinking of having a coffee, keep in mind that the “everyday” drink here is tea (which is very cheap), and they’ll charge you about 5 euros (20 riyals) for a cup of coffee at the few decent cafes there are.

+++++ Corniche ++++

In every city in the Middle East that borders the sea, you'll find a “Corniche,” which is nothing more than a traditional seaside promenade

When evening falls and the heat subsides, it fills with elegant Arabs out for a stroll….

…or a group of friends having fun without their ever-watchful husbands around

Families bring their own rugs (some of them huge) and “camp out” by the water while several pairs of cats roam freely.

There's a playground, several kiosks where you can buy snacks, and many restaurants nearby.

There's no public transportation here; you have to take a taxi. It's best to tell the taxi driver to go to the Ritz, which is right in the middle of the promenade.

In short, it may not be the most beautiful coastline in the world, but if you want to get a glimpse of everyday life in Saudi Arabia, it's worth spending a couple of hours here.

++ Eva´s Tomb ++

What to see in Jeddah if you have some extra time?: I decide to take a walk to Eve's tomb

People here have made up a legend that Eve (Adam's wife) is buried here.

Apparently, the tomb is in a cemetery about a 20- to 30-minute walk from Al Balad.

I set out and walk past the elegant white dunes of the Juffali Mosque

I pretend not to notice and go inside. There doesn't seem to be anyone there except the maintenance guy, who tells me to take off my cap… I take off my shoes, go inside, but the interior is very plain, so it really isn't worth the detour.

Llego a la tumba. Un complejo con letras en árabe cerrado a cal y canto en medio de la nada…no parece especialmente turístico: ni taxis ni tiendas ni nada alrededor…Eva puede descansar tranquila sin que los turistas le molestemos.

THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND

1. Life moves at a very leisurely pace here—so much so that banks, supermarkets, and other businesses don't open until 9:30 (or even later)...

This is quite understandable because Saudi Arabia only comes to life when the sun goes down: that’s when all the cafes open, traffic jams appear, and people can take a stroll without fear of getting scorched….

In fact, stores have opening hours as unusual as those of this supermarket

2- Public transportation is conspicuous by its absence.

It's funny to see half-empty city buses piling up west of Al Balad… even though they're cheap…

Taxi is supreme here 

The great thing about Saudi Arabia is that anyone can be a taxi driver. Just stand in the middle of the street looking lost, and all kinds of cars will wave you over to pick you up…

The official fare (for licensed taxis) is 2 rials per kilometer plus the initial charge (6 rials); with unlicensed taxis, you can negotiate whatever price you like.

For example: Al Balad to the SAPTCO bus station (13–15 km)

• On the way there, I took an unlicensed taxi—half-broken and driven by a guy who looked like he'd just gotten out of prison: 15 rials
• Official taxi fare for the return trip: 40 rials
• Uber: 28-32 rials

3.- Shopping Malls

Unlike other cities in Saudi Arabia, where a single mall has stores, movie theaters, restaurants, and more, here each mall is dedicated almost exclusively to a specific category: watches and jewelry, clothing, etc. So if you’re in a hurry and looking for a fast-food place in one of these huge malls, you’re going to have a hard time finding one…

4.- How to dress

Although all the Arab women were wearing the niqab niqab (completely covered except for their eyes) and I didn't see any (Arab) men in shorts; I had no problem wearing these the whole time; the few Western women I saw here were dressed like in Iran, with a small scarf on their heads and a dress that covered their legs and shoulders

Well, that's all there is to see in Jeddah

For more information about Saudi Arabia: https://999millas.net/es/category/paises/que-ver-en-arabia-saudi/

O su propia web: https://www.visitsaudi.com/en