Before telling you what to do on Isla del Sol, we'll have to get there first, won't we?
HOW TO GET THERE: COPACABANA
A mandatory stop before our adventure on Isla del Sol is Copacabana.
Even if you arrived early enough to catch the first ferry early in the morning, it's worth spending the day here, even though it's a place made by and for tourists. gringos : restaurantes , oficinas de venta de billetes , de cambio de monedas atestan su principal calle (6 de agosto) y es imposible caminar en paz….
The first impression of Copacabana is therefore quite negative. We go to the docks to see if the atmosphere improves. No.
A huge fleet of pedal-powered water taxis is stranded on the shore. The women responsible for their maintenance, elderly indigenous women with dirty buckets, are busy bailing out the rainwater that accumulated in them the night before. There are no customers in sight, but there they remain...
But from here on, everything starts to improve ☺️
It's the rainy season here, and although it's cold (we're at 3,800 meters), if the rain holds off, it's quite pleasant. Time for some very light hiking.
La Horca del Inca
According to Lonely Planet, it is an astronomical observatory, such that on the summer solstice, light should pass through a chosen spot at the top of the “gallows,” heralding a new season.
Well, if Lonely Planet says so... In any case, the climb to the top (1 km) is worth it for the views.
Anyone who wishes to entrust themselves to the Virgin Mary before crossing over to the island can visit the Catedral with its Black Virgin of La Candelaria, a fusion between the Virgin Mary of old and the dark complexion of the indigenous people. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside, and it seems that they are quite strict with offenders.
And now, let's go to the island.
There are only two ferries (8:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.), and you have to haggle over the price. If you go to the agencies, they all charge the same price: 20 bolivianos whether you're going to the north or south of the island. If you haggle hard and there are two or more of you, you can get it down to 15. If you're a tourist, a little older, and don't speak Spanish well, they can charge you up to 70! (When the poor old man told us this once on board, it made us want to cry 😰).
ONE OR TWO NIGHTS?
Almost all of us who went only stayed one night; I met a guy who stayed both nights, and nobody does the tour from Copacabana—that is, without staying overnight on the island—because they treat you like cattle and you don't enjoy it...
These are the disadvantages to consider when staying for two nights:
– The cold and the lack of light: From 6:00 p.m. onwards, even in the middle of summer, it starts to get dark and hiking comes to an end. In addition to this, when the sun goes down, it gets quite cold (I'm told that in winter temperatures can drop well below zero 😩).
– Weather: summer in the highlands is rainy season, and there is no guarantee that you will be able to go on your excursion the next day due to rain.
– Prices and quality: hostels are expensive (120 B$ for a double room with private bathroom, 100 with shared bathroom, although you can negotiate...) and very basic; eating out is also expensive (standard menu 40 B$) and I didn't see a supermarket worthy of the name...
– Poor atmosphere: very dull atmosphere, very boring, and poor Wi-Fi.
ISLAND OF THE SUN: THE VISIT
What can we see? The island has two “areas”: the south with the village of Yumani and the north with Cha'llapampa.
The ideal plan is to take the ferry that leaves in the morning—from the south or the north—go to the other end of the island, and walk back. From there, everyone can see the ruins they want to see, although they are not very well preserved.
El Palacio del Inca
Located almost at the southern tip of the island, it's an easy walk that takes about 45 minutes from Yumani, including taking photos and everything. Today, little remains of the palace, and there isn't even a measly explanatory sign or anything...
Even so, the journey is worth it for the scenery; it looks like a little piece of the Aegean Sea in the middle of South America.
La Escalera del Inca
A tourist trap, located right in the port. A staircase with a spring adorned with flowers. Wow. Next...
The Path that runs through the island
It's about 8-10 km, I estimate, and quite easy. It's not like you have to climb mountains or anything...
There are no signs, which will surely cause you to get lost at some point...and that's where the fun comes in (well, I had fun getting lost the first two times, but by the third time I just wanted to get there 😓).
You will need to interact with local farmers so they can guide you.
Or with the wildlife you encounter
The truth is that she ignored me and didn't help me much.
If you like photography, there are many colors to capture: the blue of Kona Bay, sometimes dark, sometimes turquoise.
Or the green of the countless terraces that have shaped the Isle of the Sun. You won't see any tractors or machinery here: everything is done by hand, and as you walk along you'll come across elderly men with enormous farming tools or children herding donkeys in the most unexpected places.
One note: according to Lonely Planet, you are supposed to pay to enter the above-mentioned sites or to use the island's trails. Well, I trespassed on at least three farms, wandered down all kinds of trails, disturbed the livestock, and surely trampled some crops... and they didn't make me pay anything.
Bueno , pues espero que ya tengas una idea de que hacer en Isla del Sol…merece la pena pasarse por este rincón apartado del mundo, entre el cielo y el mar
If you want to read more about Bolivia: https://999millas.net/category/paises/bolivia/
Or try it on their official website: https://www.turismo.produccion.gob.bo
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Texto y fotos : Mike !
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