{"id":619,"date":"2016-04-05T21:44:38","date_gmt":"2016-04-05T21:44:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/999millas.net\/?p=619"},"modified":"2026-08-10T03:48:40","modified_gmt":"2026-08-10T03:48:40","slug":"paseo-por-valparaiso","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/999millas.net\/en\/2016\/04\/05\/paseo-por-valparaiso\/","title":{"rendered":"A Stroll Through Valpara\u00edso"},"content":{"rendered":"

How can we take a full tour of Valpara\u00edso?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When you arrive at your hotel in Valpara\u00edso, they'll probably give you a map of the city.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Throw it away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No city I've ever visited invites you to get lost quite like this one. Don't let its steep hills, narrow alleys, or the unpleasant smell in the harbor area put you off. Every corner might hide a work of art, just waiting to be discovered\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Graffiti<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

So if you don't want to miss out, keep reading\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Valpara\u00edso is divided between the port area and the many hills that surround it<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A Walk Through Valpara\u00edso: the Concepci\u00f3n and Alegre Hills<\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

They are the closest to sea level and therefore easily accessible. It would be very healthy to walk up them, but then we wouldn't get to ride the ancient elevators that transport us back to the 19th century (as well as to the top, of course).<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Primera<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

The Reina Victoria and Concepci\u00f3n funiculars were built to make it easier for port workers to get from the port to their homes in the hills. The Concepci\u00f3n funicular takes you up to Cerro Concepci\u00f3n, and the Reina Victoria funicular takes you up to Cerro Alegre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the Concepcion Funicular was inaugurated -<\/u> In 1883, many of Valpara\u00edso's most traditional and religious residents flatly refused to go up out of fear. The creator and mastermind behind the project was Liborio Brieba<\/strong>, a well-known engineer who, in his spare time, wrote serialized mystery novels with spiritualist and satanic themes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To make matters worse, during the first nighttime trips, the loud screeching of the metal wheels against the rails produced intense sparks in the darkness of the hill. The people of Buenos Aires at the time claimed, half in jest and half in earnest, that the elevator was an \u201cinvention of the devil\u201d and that the sparks were proof that the car was taking you straight to the gates<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The lightweight wooden cars, the engine rooms, the rails\u2026 even the heavy swaying that accompanies us on the climb seems to have been meticulously preserved. And no, it doesn\u2019t take you to hell or anything.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"image\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Okay, let's start our tour of Valpara\u00edso. Once we reach the top, we find a very unique neighborhood, taken over by a legion of graffiti artists and other artists determined to surprise us at every turn, at every moment\u2026 there isn't a single brick wall here that hasn't been covered in paint.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"image\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

One of the main attractions of both hills is the Templeman Street<\/span>, the main street that runs north to south through the hill. I'm not going to spoil the surprise by posting photos of the street; I'll just give you a sense of the philosophy behind it<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Segunda<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Wisely, the neighborhood offers no guidance on what to see, what to do, where to sit, or where to stay\u2026 I could suggest you visit the Museum of Fine Arts or the Lukas Cartoon Museum, but I\u2019ll pass\u2026 You just have to enjoy yourself and take part in the show\u2026 Is it real or staged? Does it even matter?<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"image\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Anyone who wants to enjoy a proper sunset in Valpara\u00edso can head to the many bars with elevated terraces located right outside the Reina Victoria elevator, or have a hot chocolate at the small caf\u00e9s next to the Atkinson Promenade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cerro Artiller\u00eda<\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The second hill on our walk through Valpara\u00edso. Hang in there\u2014we still have a ways to go\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since this is home to the military, we\u2019d expect a little more seriousness\u2026 It\u2019s true that the atmosphere isn\u2019t as wild as it is at the port or as poetic as it is on other hills, but some of the city\u2019s characteristic fun still seeps through.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Tercera<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Seriously though, at the top there's the Naval Museum and a lookout overlooking the bay, which is actually kind of ugly\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cerro Carcel <\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This one's pretty high up, and there's no elevator \ud83d\ude31<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Que no cunda el p\u00e1nico.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El autobus 612 te lleva por esas alturas desde la zona del puerto. La plaza de este cerro (Pza Bismarck<\/span>) ofrece buenas vistas a la bah\u00eda; bajando un poco llegas al Parque Cultural<\/span>, lo que era la carcel donde Pinochet encerraba a los prisioneros pol\u00edticos , felizmente reconvertido a un centro cultural abierto a todos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cerro Bellavista <\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

El hermano rebelde de Cerro Alegre. Sucio, salvaje y desarreglado pero….es el inicio de todo esto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The origin of the murals in the Cerro Bellavista<\/u> is directly linked to the birth of the Museo a Cielo Abierto de Valpara\u00edso (MaCA)<\/u> And so a group of student artists set out to beautify this part of the city by painting murals in the most unexpected places; there are about 20 of them, scattered haphazardly all over the hill (fortunately \ud83d\ude0a); the dictatorship put an end to this project\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"image\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

During the major painting phase in the early 1990s, established artists (who were already elderly or living outside Chile) sent their sketches and scale drawings to Valpara\u00edso. The ones who actually climbed the scaffolding to trace the lines and fill in the colors under the Valpara\u00edso sun were art students from the university and the hill\u2019s own residents. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

This led to some very funny situations:
The official artists almost never showed up on the hill. When Bellavista\u2019s oldest residents saw a group of unfamiliar young people painting giant, strange, colorful abstract figures on the walls of their homes, they thought they were nighttime vandals or \u201ccrazy graffiti artists\u201d ruining the neighborhood in the early morning hours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On more than one occasion, residents went out onto their balconies to yell at them, throw water at them, and even called the police<\/strong> so they would arrest the students\u2026.poor students, martyrs for their art \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There aren't any expensive restaurants here. Everything is pretty dirty. There are hardly any tourists. It's the perfect opportunity to wander the streets and discover its hidden corners\u2014like the Pasaje de Santa Luc\u00eda<\/span>\u2013 and gossip with the neighbors<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"image\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

While art at Cerro Alegre has been tamed, sanitized, and made tourist-friendly, here it appears neglected, untamed, and left to fend for itself\u2026 a completely different experience from Cerro Alegre<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"image\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

The mother of all hills starts at this hill\u2014C\/ Ferrari\u2014and takes us to La Sebastiana, Pablo Neruda\u2019s home, which has now been converted into a museum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is nestled on a ledge on the hillside, and it's worth paying the 6,000 CH$ to visit it because it is a monument to good taste and still features the poet's original furniture and workspace.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Importante<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

These were the views from his bedroom, a veritable eagle's nest overlooking the city.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A little more information about Neruda's House: https:\/\/fundacionneruda.org\/museos\/casa-museo-la-sebastiana\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Port Area <\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This is the natural habitat of the city's alternative types and hippies. I wouldn't say the area is more aggressive than the rest of the city, but it is certainly much more rebellious.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"La<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

By the way, along the stretch between Plaza Sotomayor and Plaza Wheelwright, there are plenty of seafood restaurants, and they\u2019re very cheap compared to prices in tourist areas; at the harbor, there are also \u201cboats\u201d that will take you on a tour of the bay for 3,000 CH$.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Night falls.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A horde of street performers with their juggling props, guitars, and bicycles\u2026 gather in Plaza del Deseo (between Cumming and Atahualpa streets) to rehearse their acts. There\u2019s applause, cheering, lots of beer\u2026 an incredible atmosphere<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On this street (Cumming) and the parallel streets leading uphill are the most daring bars, each one more unique than the next\u2026 and each one competes with the others to catch your camera\u2019s eye; some of the facades are stunning.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And that wraps up our tour of Valpara\u00edso\u2026 I invite everyone to come here and experience\u2014literally\u2014the magical atmosphere that surrounds this city<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"image\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

If you want to read more about Chile: http:\/\/999millas.net\/category\/paises\/chile\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Or visit their official website: https:\/\/valpoturistico.cl<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

And, as always, whether you loved or hated this post, let me know in the comments!! \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Texto y fotos : Mike \u00a1<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Un completo paseo art\u00edstico por los barrios de Valpara\u00edso…si te gusta el graffiti y el arte callejero este es tu post !!<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":599,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"Valpara\u00edso , ciudad de suspiros","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[95,195],"tags":[96,98,97],"class_list":["post-619","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile","category-valparaiso","tag-graffiti","tag-mural","tag-suspiros"],"yoast_head":"\nUn paseo por Valparaiso<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"An\u00edmate a dar un paseo por Valparaiso y sus cerros m\u00e1gicos: Concepci\u00f3n, Alegre, Bellavista....te descubro los secretos de cada uno de ellos !!\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/999millas.net\/en\/2016\/04\/05\/paseo-por-valparaiso\/\" \/>\n<meta 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