{"id":22813,"date":"2024-11-24T11:04:09","date_gmt":"2024-11-24T11:04:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/999millas.net\/?p=22813"},"modified":"2026-06-20T09:40:31","modified_gmt":"2026-06-20T09:40:31","slug":"que-ver-en-jeddha","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/999millas.net\/en\/2024\/11\/24\/que-ver-en-jeddha\/","title":{"rendered":"Jeddha"},"content":{"rendered":"

Jeddha<\/h1>\n\n\n\n

What to see in Jeddah? Where to start? Well, let's start with the flight there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jeddah is one of the gateways to Medina and Mecca, and every year thousands of pilgrims make their way here, get off the plane, and take the train or a bus to those destinations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As people gather in the boarding line for the flight to Jeddah, you start to see more and more men dressed in what looks like a towel (?), a blanket (?), or even curtains (!!) in pristine white.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I notice the nationalities of these people when we're in the line where they check passports: Indonesia, the United Kingdom (lots of them), Pakistan\u2026 and even a few Germans!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But the story doesn't end at the boarding gate. During the flight, there are huge lines for the restrooms. The men (but not the women) go into the restroom and stay in there for what seems like an eternity\u2026 and after a while, I figure out the mystery:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Just like in a \u201cSuperman booth,\u201d men dressed in Western-style clothing (jeans and a shirt) go in and come out wearing the pilgrim outfit described above\u2014with the added problem that it\u2019s quite loose from the waist up, so you find yourself horrified as you gaze at a parade of bare chests and bellies in the middle of the plane\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By the way, if you\u2019re thinking of \u201csneaking\u201d into Mecca or Medina by pretending to be a pilgrim, give up all hope: I was told that to get in, they require a document\u2014in addition to your passport\u2014issued by the Islamic center in your city certifying that you are a Muslim\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How to Get to Downtown Jeddah from the Airport<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The best option, without a doubt (at the airport and in Saudi Arabia in general), is to use Uber<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An Uber ride downtown costs about 43 rials (10\u201311 euros), compared to the 75 or 100 rials that the \u201chonest\u201d taxi drivers\u2014who hound you as soon as you leave the baggage claim area\u2014try to charge you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There\u2019s also a bus (the Express 13\u2014though \u201cexpress\u201d is just for show; it was extremely slow) that goes through Al Balad (the historic center of Jeddah) via a \u201cstop\u201d at the domestic terminal of Jeddah Airport. It costs 20 riyals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Well, I arrived at my hotel (which I had booked in advance) around 11:15 p.m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I'm greeted by a closed door and a little sign that reads: \u201cClosed for maintenance.\u201d I start pounding on the door, and a man comes out and tells me to leave because they're doing renovations. I remind him of his family, and he calls the owner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This guy comes out, and I try to sweet-talk him into letting me sleep in the hotel lobby, on the couches. I'm not going to let this guy fool me\u2026 well, after a long walk at night, I find another hotel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I walk in, and as he\u2019s checking me in, he looks at me with interest, as if he\u2019s thinking something (like how to rip me off, I guess), and I point out a tiny sign with the room rate: 150 rials. The guy looks at it, completely surprised, and starts laughing\u2026 no one rips me off twice in the same night, haha<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Let's get started with the tour itself<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What to See in Jeddah<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Al Balad <\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"Que<\/a>
Una de las plazas de Al <\/em>Bala<\/i>d<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Al Balad est\u00e1 incluida como uno de los lugares Patrimonio de la Humanidad por la UNESCO y es una visita inexcusable en Arabia Saud\u00ed. Sus maravillosas casas de coral han hospedado visitantes tan ilustres como el viajero medieval Ibn Batutta o el famoso Lawrence de Arabia<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Probably the best place to choose where to stay.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is the historic district of Jeddah, a network of winding alleys lined with shops and historic buildings, some of which have been restored\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Que<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u2026and others in a glorious state of ruin, standing on their rotten wood and crumbling stone as best they can<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Que<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

These elegant houses have truly seen better days<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Al Balad is organized like a typical souq souq (<\/em>Eastern souk: In one area, all the stores sell clothing (in this case, in the northern part of the souk), and in another area, the shoe stores are clustered together (in the southern part).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The neighborhood has it all: little squares with tables where you can sit and enjoy the fresh air, half-ruined mosques, and lots of bored police officers sitting in rickety chairs, constantly playing with their cell phones.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One curious thing I'd never seen before in these souks is a sort of \u201ccat feeder\u201d right in the middle of the street<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

For some reason I don't understand, Saudi Arabia in general\u2014and Jeddah in particular\u2014are full of cats everywhere, and the neighbors are very kind to them, both here and on the Corniche.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In an hour and a half or two hours, you can see all of Al Balad<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spend those two hours visiting it at night, since it's unbearably hot during the day (about 35 degrees, and that's in November\u2026)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The various small squares in the historic center have been lit up in a very inviting way, and there are tables and chairs where\u2014surprise\u2014you don't have to buy anything to sit down<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Que<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

At sunset, everyone heads out shopping and the souk comes alive\u2014it\u2019s quite a sight. By the way, if you\u2019re thinking of having a coffee, keep in mind that the \u201ceveryday\u201d drink here is tea (which is very cheap), and they\u2019ll charge you about 5 euros (20 riyals) for a cup of coffee at the few decent cafes there are.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

+++++ Corniche ++++<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

In every city in the Middle East that borders the sea, you'll find a \u201cCorniche,\u201d which is nothing more than a traditional seaside promenade<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When evening falls and the heat subsides, it fills with elegant Arabs out for a stroll\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u2026or a group of friends having fun without their ever-watchful husbands around<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Que<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Families bring their own rugs (some of them huge) and \u201ccamp out\u201d by the water while several pairs of cats roam freely.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There's a playground, several kiosks where you can buy snacks, and many restaurants nearby.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There's no public transportation here; you have to take a taxi. It's best to tell the taxi driver to go to the Ritz, which is right in the middle of the promenade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In short, it may not be the most beautiful coastline in the world, but if you want to get a glimpse of everyday life in Saudi Arabia, it's worth spending a couple of hours here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

++ Eva\u00b4s Tomb ++<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

What to see in Jeddah if you have some extra time?: I decide to take a walk to Eve's tomb<\/p>\n\n\n\n

People here have made up a legend that Eve (Adam's wife) is buried here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Apparently, the tomb is in a cemetery about a 20- to 30-minute walk from Al Balad.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I set out and walk past the elegant white dunes of the Juffali Mosque<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I pretend not to notice and go inside. There doesn't seem to be anyone there except the maintenance guy, who tells me to take off my cap\u2026 I take off my shoes, go inside, but the interior is very plain, so it really isn't worth the detour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Llego a la tumba. Un complejo con letras en \u00e1rabe cerrado a cal y canto en medio de la nada\u2026no parece especialmente tur\u00edstico: ni taxis ni tiendas ni nada alrededor\u2026Eva puede descansar tranquila sin que los turistas le molestemos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

1. Life moves at a very leisurely pace here\u2014so much so that banks, supermarkets, and other businesses don't open until 9:30 (or even later)...<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This is quite understandable because Saudi Arabia only comes to life when the sun goes down: that\u2019s when all the cafes open, traffic jams appear, and people can take a stroll without fear of getting scorched\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In fact, stores have opening hours as unusual as those of this supermarket<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

2- Public transportation is conspicuous by its absence.<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

It's funny to see half-empty city buses piling up west of Al Balad\u2026 even though they're cheap\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taxi is supreme here <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The great thing about Saudi Arabia is that anyone can be a taxi driver. Just stand in the middle of the street looking lost, and all kinds of cars will wave you over to pick you up\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The official fare (for licensed taxis) is 2 rials per kilometer plus the initial charge (6 rials); with unlicensed taxis, you can negotiate whatever price you like.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For example: Al Balad to the SAPTCO bus station (13\u201315 km)<\/p>\n\n\n\n