{"id":1327,"date":"2017-01-05T00:55:51","date_gmt":"2017-01-05T00:55:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/999millas.net\/?p=1327"},"modified":"2026-08-30T03:29:42","modified_gmt":"2026-08-30T03:29:42","slug":"ruta-por-patagonia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/999millas.net\/en\/2017\/01\/05\/ruta-por-patagonia\/","title":{"rendered":"Patagonia oeste"},"content":{"rendered":"

There are few experiences more \u201cadventurous\u201d than traveling through Patagonia along the Andes, between Argentina and Chile, on National Route 40<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Ruta<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

In this never-ending road movie, you\u2019ll encounter all kinds of characters traveling along the route in every imaginable way: my Polish travel companion who gets around by hitchhiking; the woman who travels from truck to truck, receiving nothing but indecent proposals along the way; or those of us who spent Christmas Day stuck in the mud in the middle of nowhere \ud83d\ude13<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

From El Bols\u00f3n to El Calafate: 1,300 kilometers of steppe, freedom, and colorful people<\/p>\n\n\n\n

MY TRIP THROUGH PATAGONIA: EL BOLSON<\/b><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

First stop on my trip through Patagonia: El Bols\u00f3n, a sort of hippie town. This is evident on one of its main streets, where a few people have set up camp\u2014apparently on a permanent basis\u2014to voice a wide variety of demands.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Ruta<\/a>
Ah ! El Bols\u00f3n y la comida sana….<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

One of the best signs read: \u201cNo alcohol, drugs, or hate allowed\u201d\u2026 I don\u2019t know if hate got in, but as for the rest\u2026 no comment. Another interesting thing is that the town\u2019s stores\u2014of any kind\u2014don\u2019t give you plastic bags to avoid pollution; everything is very eco-friendly here\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

But people don't come to El Bols\u00f3n to use drugs or drink alcohol (or do they? \ud83d\ude1b)\u2014they come to enjoy the trails and mountains that surround it. In fact, it has a vast network of mountain huts connected in such a way that you can plan various routes by hopping from one to the next <\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are two types of trails: the mountain trails, which lead to the mountain huts, and the easier trails that take you mainly to areas near the R\u00edo Azul Valley; for the former, you must register before setting out at the Mountain Office located in Plaza Pagano (next to the Tourist Office), while the latter can be hiked freely.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Needless to say, I only went on the easy ones \ud83d\ude1b; at the Mountain Office, they give you maps that are pretty useful, though the trails are also very well marked. Here\u2019s a map with a few of them<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ruta<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The most typical trail is the one that takes you through Cabeza del Indio to the Cascada Escondida; neither place is particularly spectacular, but the walk is enjoyable.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

It\u2019s a short hike (about 16 km round trip) and not very steep; as you leave town, an information sign gives you the option to take the \u201csteep climb\u201d or the \u201cBarrio Usina\u201d route. Both involve an uphill climb, but the first follows the road, while the second takes you directly through the forest, where you can enjoy nature. Halfway there, you can take a detour to any of the campgrounds along the R\u00edo Azul (follow the sign that says \u201cCosta del R\u00edo Azul,\u201d 6 km further round trip) and hang out for a while near the river.\n\nTranslated with DeepL.com (free version)<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

If you have some extra time\u2014and money\u2014you can take a bus for 20 pesos to visit Lago Pueno National Park (entrance fee: 150 pesos). Buses leave every 30 minutes from the corner of Avenida San Mart\u00edn and Calle Dorrego.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once you're there, they offer the typical boat tours to explore the lake or even cross over to Chile; there are also a couple of short trails, one of which ends at a lookout point. Here's a map of the trails and main points of interest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ruta<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

When you've had enough of all that walking, El Bols\u00f3n hosts a fair where all the products on offer must be handmade. Food, crafts, clothing\u2026 it's definitely worth a visit, and it's open on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Several hitchhikers are gathered at the exit from El Bols\u00f3n. No wonder\u2014a ticket to El Chalt\u00e9n costs about 2,100 pesos, which is outrageous\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By the way, here's their official website: https:\/\/www.elbolson.com<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

EL CHALTEN<\/b><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

We continued on my trip through Patagonia, and after I don't know how many hours on the bus, I arrived in El Chalten.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s 9:00 a.m. at a random hostel. A sea of people pours out of it in droves, clad in their expensive mountaineering gear, their faces smeared with white sunscreen, and their eyes gleaming with eagerness for the trail\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is what a typical day is like in El Chalten, Argentina's \u201cNational Hiking Capital.\u201d We've come here to visit Los Glaciares National Park.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ruta<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The northern part of the vast Glacier National Park can be explored from this small town nestled in a valley and devoted body and soul to mountaineering, offering some of the world\u2019s most spectacular hiking trails for all skill levels: from a simple 6-km round-trip walk to the Chorrillo del Salto waterfall<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

all the way to the steep ascent to Fitz Roy and its 3,405 meters<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

As soon as you arrive at the bus station, pick up one of the very useful trail maps available for free at the tourist office and choose the one that best suits your skill level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An important tip: If you have time, come to El Chalten only after you\u2019ve made sure the weather will be good. The town is really just a tiny main street with restaurants, cafes, and travel agencies\u2014and not much else\u2026 There\u2019s nothing to do here if it starts to rain and you can\u2019t go out into the mountains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And now all that's left to do is enjoy the hike you've chosen; the trails are well-maintained, clearly marked, and clean, and it's a real pleasure to walk here, with scenery that's nothing short of breathtaking<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Aqu\u00ed estoy, en laguna Torre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

By the way, I can't help but mention one of the things that struck me the most about Patagonia: the influx of Israeli kids. They come in huge groups and fill room after room\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They\u2019re the most closed-off group of travelers I\u2019ve encountered in my 21 years of traveling. They only talk to each other. For example, a girl came into my room with the front desk clerk, looked at me (without even saying hello), and asked him in English, pointing at me, \u201cIs he Israeli?\u201d When he told her no, she didn\u2019t speak to me at all during the two days we were there. A real charmer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of them, who was quite friendly, explained to me that they like to talk only among themselves \u201cbecause they get each other\u2019s jokes\u201d and that they don\u2019t feel quite as comfortable with \u201cforeigners.\u201d Well, there you have it\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

EL CALAFATE<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

A 3\u00bd-hour bus ride\u2014and 450 pesos\u2014is all it takes to get from El Chalten to El Calafate; unfortunately, this was the last leg of my trip through Patagonia<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El Calafate is your typical \u201cone-attraction town.\u201d It\u2019s true that the many tour agencies on its main street will offer you all kinds of activities\u2014mountain biking, some hiking\u2014but when it comes down to it, we all come here to see the Perito Moreno Glacier, in the southern part of Los Glaciares National Park.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Don't even think about booking a tour (hey, we're exploring Patagonia on our own, right?), and in fact, you can get there by bus from the station (450 pesos, about 75 minutes), paying the National Park entrance fee (330 pesos) along the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Your admission ticket includes access to the various trails that run north to south along the glacier: above it, below it, from the coast\u2026 it\u2019s amazing<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Tambi\u00e9n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

In addition, you can sign up for two other activities: the boat tour and the glacier hike. I didn't do either of them, but here's the information:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It seems you can book the boat tour on the spot at the park itself (350 pesos). From what I saw, the boat gets close\u2014but not too close\u2014to the glacier. It must be an amazing moment if you happen to be on one of these boats when a piece of the glacier breaks off, but you\u2019d have to be very lucky for that to happen\u2026 Anyway, since I haven\u2019t done it myself, I\u2019m not sure if it\u2019s a must-do on your visit to the glacier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are two types of hikes: the short one (1,400 pesos) and the long one (4,000). You have to book them in advance (as of December 30, 2016, for example, the only available spots were for dates starting January 7, 2017), and everyone I asked told me it was well worth it\u2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Or you can just take a stroll along the boardwalks and snap as many spectacular photos as you like<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If anyone would like more information, here is their official website: https:\/\/www.elcalafate.tur.ar<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

As you can see, traveling through Patagonia on your own is tough (lots of hours on the bus) but amazing\u2026 We\u2019ll have to go back someday, but this time on the Chilean side.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whether you liked this post (or not) or if you have any additional information to share, please leave a comment!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And to learn a little more about Argentina: http:\/\/999millas.net\/category\/paises\/argentina\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Texto y fotos : Mike !<\/i><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Desde El Bols\u00f3n hasta El Calafate, 1.307 km recorriendo la legendaria Ruta Nacional 40… !! vamos !!<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1326,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"La #Patagonia argentina : posiblemente de lo mejor en #naturaleza de la 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